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Now that you have gotten your digital
camera, it is time to learn some unofficial tips and tricks on protecting
your digital investments and also learning how to take good photos.

This section has been extracted
from Canon Japan on how to prepare your digital investment. http://www.canon.com/copyright.html
Why go by trial and error? Learn
shortcuts from the pros
By Judy Ann Newton-Harzer
The thing about a law or a rule
is that, as soon as you set it in stone, someone sets out to disprove
it. Your next batch of dive photos may not turn out well if you go
strictly by the rules. Remember the old saying about always shooting
with the sun to your back? How many striking shots have you seen
with a brilliant sun flare highlighting the feathery coral whips?
And what about the old standard that horizontal shots are more balanced
than verticals? Many a festooned wreck would be missing masts if
we followed that credo.
Underwater photography is like a war of wits where you are challenged
by the forces of nature to capture the best elements in a single
set of images. Just like any battle, there are rules, there are orders
and then there is what works. When the rules of photography won’t
fit or don’t apply, let your natural instincts take over. Here
are some tips and tricks to get you started.
If you learn nothing else from this article, memorise this mantra.
Whether you are a beginner or a professional with publishing credits
longer than a telephone directory, this is the Golden Rule. If you
consider how much money, time and effort you have expended to get
to the dive site, the most prudent thing you can do is ensure you
got the shot by bracketing your exposure setting one stop over and
one stop under!
Remember that water is roughly 800 times denser than air and the
further you are from the subject, the more you lose in clarity, colour
and texture. You are also opening up the shutter to suspended particulates
that turn into nasty backscatter when illuminated. Keep in mind that
an image is reflected light — the more distance that light
has to travel to and from the shutter, the bigger the margin for
imperfection.
Shooting down on a subject is more difficult to compose and expose,
unless you are shooting macro. Shooting up provides a more interactive
profile of the subject, a more interesting background and a stronger
focus on your subject.
Get acquainted with the basic principles of photo composition and
the Rule of Thirds. Understand the theories, practise them until
they are second nature to you, but do not be ruled by them! Be bold
and inventive with your shots, but perfect the fundamentals. Don’t
be satisfied with one angle of approach to your chosen subject. Try “composition
bracketing” — shooting from various angles to the left,
the right, move in, move out. All of this will create a sense of
natural depth. Don’t hold yourself back mentally or physically.
Faster shutter speeds will stop the action, adjust the background
colour and increase the depth of field. Most creatures in the sea
move faster than your camera’s ability to freeze the action.
Setting your shutter at 1/125 will slow down a speeding surgeonfish,
but 1/250 will stop him dead in his tracks and bring out the deep,
dark-blue background to create a magnificent contrast.
You may get the entire whale shark focused but, unless the eye is
crystal sharp in the final image, the shot is sadly out of focus.
The eyes are the most captivating part of the fish. By getting the
eyes “dead bang” on with perfect focus, clarity and exposure,
you are creating a relationship between the subject and the camera
lens. That interaction is the essential element between a good shot
and a great shot.
Deepwater creatures are difficult to capture accurately because
of the density of the water between you and the subject. By keeping
the sun to your back, you are utilising any available natural sunlight
to highlight and accentuate the fish’s form.
Legendary underwater photo-pro Jim Church taught me a vital phrase
that I still chant on every dive: “Focus, Distance, Angle,
Shoot.” This is the equation that most underwater photographers
forget. Focus on your subject and then calculate the distance from
the subject to the shutter plane — not the tip of the lens.
Also, keep in mind that distances refract and subjects appear closer
than they really are!
A vast panorama is nice, but it can be dull if there is nothing
to draw the eye. Focus on something in the foreground that offers
an optical teaser. A silhouette bursts to life when a splash of soft
coral frames the foreground.
Keeping your eye on the subject but don’t ignore the fore
and background! Before you take that shot, check the foreground for
odd debris, too much sand and things that might detract from the
image. Also check the background for an errant diver splayed against
the wall in a deformed manner or the anchor line of the boat sliding
through your shot like a telephone line.
The benefits of shooting with dual strobes are obvious: Even lighting,
eliminates shadows, reduces backscatter and highlights the subject.
Make sure that your strobes are balanced so that one does not overpower
the other and wash out one side of your shot. Understand the elements
of flash photography, how to better capture natural light and apply
fill flashing. Dual strobes double your options for creating mood
and capturing the shot.
Using a wide-angle lens (between 12mm- 20mm) allows more versatility
and permits you to get close without losing the subject. It also
reduces the amount of water between you and the subject. While it
is fairly unlikely you will ever get a great macro shot with a 13mm
fish-eye lens, you can create some captivating close-up shots.
Allow your subject some space in the shot. Crowding a fish to the
wall or to the outside border of your frame suggests a lack of action
or a dead fish. Cutting off heads and tails is equally disturbing!
Hold the shutter release and watch for the fine details that can
ruin a shot — such as a shiny fish! You know that light bounces
off a silverfish more than it does a grouper, so keep that detail
in mind when setting your camera.
Understanding how the fish lives, moves, eats, sleeps and evades
can make the process of “stalking” so much easier. Listen
to the dive briefings, observe your subject before you move in and
be patient.
Limiting yourself to a regular dive schedule also limits you to
what you can photograph and the effect light has on your efforts.
Even varying the rota for getting off the dive boat can alter what
subjects you can capture. For a real thrill, dive during “rush
hour” – that magical time at sunrise and sunset when
the night creatures and day creatures change shifts.
If you are planning to include a model in your shot, know what you
are going to do before you get the model wet! Take a reconnaissance
dive to choose your location and even snap a few shots to show your
model exactly how you want her to move into the scene. Getting it
right on the dive deck will increase your chances of getting it right
at depth.
If you set up your camera for macro shots and then jump in looking
for whale sharks, you have wasted your time and opportunity. Decide
what you are going after (macro, wide angle, close-up) before you
get in the water and stick to the plan.
Okay, so you just read that you should always stick to the plan.
Not easy if your strobes fail or the subjects are macro and you are
shooting with a fish-eye lens. Always have a backup plan in mind
for such instances. Do not dwell on the problems, dump Plan A and
move on to Plan B. Think of this as another opportunity to learn
a new skill or technique with the camera.
Practice your diving and camera skills. Test your camera in a bucket
before you get into the water. Test batteries, test strobes, test,
test, test... it’s too late when things don’t work at
depth.
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